Broadhead Tuning

With hunting season coming upon us, the field points are coming off and it's time to put something razor sharp on the end of it. But why broadhead tune? I don't believe for a second that they all fly like field points. And when shooting traditional equipment and fixed blade broadheads, sometimes they can plane. We have to correct them to be perfect before we hit the woods. In order to tune using broadheads the given is you're going to have to sacrifice one for tuning, unless you sharpen it and use it. Broadheads can get pretty expensive, and the ones I buy come in a six-pack. I will take one of those and use it strictly for tuning, as it is going to get beat up a little from the block target. Broadhead tuning is a fairly simple process as long as the arrow has already been tuned to the bow. Now grab an old 3D or layered foam target and let's get to it.

I mount my broadheads (two-blade) horizontal to the bow because I believe it helps keep it out of my sight picture and also helps keep the broadheads from slicing my hand wide open in the event I get too pumped up and over draw or move my bow hand. I use Hot melt on all of my broadheads to ensure that I can rotate them and make them horizontal with the bow. The next thing I do is put them on a flat surface or an arrow spinner and make sure they are straight. Once they are spinning straight I will head to the range.

I began at 15 yards and shoot one arrow with a field point, really focusing on the spot. Once I have shot that arrow, I take a golf tee and switch it out with the arrow. This does two things. First, it allows me to completely reset and get another good solid one-arrow shot. Second, it helps save me arrows. The goal is to get the broadhead as close to the golf tee (or your last arrow) as possible. I repeat this process recording them as I go to make sure I am not making poor shots or getting lucky on the first one. This will be for the right handed archer. Now, if my broadhead is consistently hitting right of the field point, it is showing me that it is a weak arrow and therefore I must cut the arrow or go to a lighter broadhead. If the arrow is hitting left, it is showing me that the arrow is stiff and that I have to build my shelf out or go to a heavier point broadhead. If the arrow is nock high or nock low, then it is a nock point issue. Once the arrow is hitting perfect with the golf tee, I move back 10 yards and repeat the process until I feel I am at the max range I will be comfortable taking a shot on the intended animal. My max range varies not only with animal size, but terrain, or just how I am feeling that day.

Well there you have it on how I tune my broadheads. There are many ways to tune your arrows and broadheads and lots of resources out there online.